Up the Coast of Mountainous Martinique

Cruising up the west coast of Martinique reminded all of us of just how large the island is.  The hills that loomed above Le Marin, grew into full fledged mountains behind Fort de France while above the harbor at St Pierre at the island's north end looms the bulk of Mt Pelee, it's peak shrouded in mists.  Mt Pelee is the volcano that, on May 8, 1902, took out Martinique's original capital, snuffing some 30,000 lives and sparing only two individuals, one a shoemaker and the other a murderer in the jail.

Like Anse Mitan and Rodney Bay, St Pierre seems much bigger than Don and I remember from 1999, though the old town along the waterfront, showing the anchorage it's backsides, can't realistically be much changed.  It is surely our memories that have aged!  

What probably is newer and enlarged are the clusters of newer homes on the ridges above, but still keeping clear of the sleeping giant's flanks.  Mt Pelee is very green, as tall mountains catching the trade winds often times are.

The bay was deep until close to shore and the relatively few anchored yachts were strung out along the beach.  The water was very clear and we quickly jumped in for a cool down and to check the anchor.  

The boys launched the dinghy with good intentions of a late afternoon stroll and dinner ashore, but then Tom did the cruiser thing and went visiting, coming home having invited neighbors by for cocktails.

The couple he invited, Keith and Ida, were a youngish pair from Perth Amboy, NJ in their second year of cruising.  Their boat, Cheers, was only as long as Quantum Leap is wide!  I'm sure it was nostalgic for all four of us to listen to their accounts of  hikes and tours all accomplished with youthful energy and tight budgets!   Those were the days.  Tom quizzed them about places they have just been that we are headed towards, and the discrepancy between our delivery north -- leisurely yet steady -- and their meandering exploration south was somewhat bittersweet.  I know at least Don and I couldn't help but be wistful about all the things -- hikes, dives, meals, hidden coves etc -- we don't have time for this time.  Indeed,  happy hour stretched long enough that in the end we passed on dinner ashore, picked up the dinghy and readied then boat for an early morning departure.

That said, bittersweet aside, there is something easy about gliding by these places where we do have memories.  We swear we are going to spend two nights in Dominica!  and get off the boat!

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