Dominica

Quantum Leap and crew left Martinique early Friday morning.  The sky was overcast and we'd had showers on and off through the night, giving the boat a needed rinse down but forcing sleepers to keep their hatches closed!  After a very blustery day on Thursday, we were expecting more of same, but the early weather was flat calm.

Once we were clear of the island, however, the wind began to fill in, and the haze thickened to swirls and bars of cloud with more scattered showers.  Dominica, visible to the north when we started, faded and reappeared over and over as rain swept across it. 

This was our longest run of the trip so far, some 55 miles to Dominica's northernmost anchorage of Portsmouth. Half the trip would be in the open water between islands and half in the lee of the island.  Quantum Leap sailed fast as Don and I, on watch, kept an eye on the dark cloud line for signs of nasty wind bursts that can sometimes lurk below them.  Fortunately, none materialized.

Chris Doyle's cruising guide says that, "If Christopher Columbus were to return to the Caribbean today, the only island he would recognize is Dominica."  This, of course, is a major overstatement, since the Carib Indians, the original inhabitants, now have only a tract of land on the east coast to call their own. 

However, it is true that Dominica has so far avoided the worst rampant development of outsider directed tourism and development.  Dominicans pride themselves on maintaining a natural island.  This, however, gives some visitors (like the Brazilian bareboater I chatted with in the ladies shower at Rodney Bay marina) the idea that these islands are "so poor".  Whether they are or they aren't can be debated, but in their own minds, they are their own masters, setting their own tone, sticking to their own ways.

This is the fourth time I've been to Dominica. The first time was in 1992 when my crew Glenn and I ventured out of the Virgin Islands for a month long trip south on Whisper, specifically to visit Dominica about which we had heard so much.  On that trip we brought my friend Judy and Glenn's friend Mark along with us.  My second trip was with Don, also on Whisper, in 1997 when we sailed down the chain to Trinidad...our first time sailing together as a couple not on charter.   Our third time was in 1999 on Tackless II, outward bound on our ten year cruise.

As usual, as we approached Portsmouth, we were met by fast boats, racing out to welcome us and incidentally to acquire us for the various services we might need -- like vegetables and fruit, a ride to customs, River and island tours, security, etc.  Tradition has it you should "take" the first boat to reach you, unless you have a previous association with someone.  With the high cost of gas these days, we didn't get acquired as far out to sea as would on e have been the case!

A new development since we were here is that these guys have formed an organization, called PAYS.  The members must be certified guides among other restrictions.  I must say things operate even more smoothly.  

The first to reach us was Fire (Cobra, pictured, was second.). In the old days it would be Fire we went with for everything.  Put nowadays, these guys have other guys working for them!  So, our river guide would be Eric, aka Spaghetti;  our bus tour guide Kensington, aka Uncle Sam; and our vegie supplier  Michael, aka Nature Boy.

Arriving at about the same time as we was a 63' Swan -- a unique bright yellow and green 60' Swan! -- named Io.

It turned out this was a private yacht with only their professional crew -- Stuart and Susie -- aboard.  They readily signed up to share our planned island tour.  after checking in in at customs, the two crews went ashore for happy hour.  

Our first bar choice was not ideal, a bunch of locals apparently under the influence of various smoky substances were debating politics in typically loud West Indian discussion style, distracting the lady bartender from any interest in serving us...or adding up the tab reliably.

So we moved on to the Purple Turtle, where a lovely, gracious lady named Patrica took care of us and served us a typically creole meal of fish, rice and beans, "provision" -- the starchy vegetables collection of plantain, taro, breadfruit etc -- and cabbage salad.

The Purple Turtle was, by the way,  the base for the anchorage's Wifi hot spot...in this case. Allied the HOT! hot! hot spot!